An interior design blog with furniture reviews, interior decorating tips, DIY projects, and home furniture guides.

Archive for the ‘How To & DIY Furniture’ Category

DIY Headboard and Other Options

Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010

Headboard1

Make Upholstered Headboard” was first posted by my predecessor, Nicolette the Design Diva, on July 7th, 2009. After reading the blog entry, Sandra Barton made her own headboard and she recently sent me the pictures to show other Furniture and Design Ideas readers that it’s not too difficult.

Sandra writes:

Hi Heather,

Headboard2

Here are some pictures of the headboard. The instructions were great. I did add some coordinating upholstered buttons to give it a more tailored look – I measured and drilled holes in the back of the plywood and then used quadrupled button thread to pull it tight. All in all, this cost me about $100 to make.  The most expensive supply was the foam.

Thanks so much … Love your blog!

Sandra Barton

Thanks for the kind words, and thank you for sharing this with us Sandra – your upholstered headboard turned out great. It’s always good to hear from readers and even better when they send pics!

If you’re DIY-ing your headboard, then like Sandra, you already know how you want it to look. But what if you’re not DIY inclined? Here are some tips on how to get the headboard you really want.

The bed or headboard, like the Fashion Bed Group Dunhill Wood Headboard, is the automatic focal point of the room. Consider what kind of “statement” you would like the headboard to make. After all, when you (or someone else) enter the room, it will be the first thing you see. Do you want it to be imposing? The old headboard was made of wood: do you want your new headboard to be upholstered or to be made of metal? Would you like the look of a traditional poster bed but don’t want a footboard?

When purchasing a headboard for a room that has already been furnished, you will want to match the headboard to the bedroom’s existing décor. This means it should be the same color and/or style as your bedroom furniture and should blend with the other color elements in the room such the walls or the curtains.

The most obvious requirement when selecting a headboard for your bedroom is that, if you already have a bed frame and don’t intend on replacing the mattress/foundation (box spring), then the headboard size will have to match the mattress size.

But there are other things to consider as well. If you are in the habit of reading in bed, you may want the added comfort an upholstered headboard will provide or the convenience of additional storage a bookcase headboard offers.

Don’t forget height. Especially if you are selecting a headboard for a bed that has a plush or thick mattress, you will want the headboard to be tall enough to be seen. Buying high or tall headboards or pairing one with a low-profile type of bed can be useful when you want to showcase a specific type of material, such as a leather headboard, or a modern metal headboard like the Fashion Bed Group Brooklyn Metal Headboard with a unique design. As you can see in Sandra’s second picture, the height of her upholstered headboard really makes the bed “pop,” a combination of how tall the headboard is and the fabric she chose.

When buying a headboard, also give some thought to how it will work with your current bed or bed frame. Some bed frames are independently freestanding, but most are designed to be mounted on a wall, like an upholstered headboard. Don’t panic! If you have purchased a headboard that ends up not playing nice with the bed frame you already own or just bought, you can always secure it to the wall and place the bed in front of it.

Thanks again Sandra for sharing your DIY upholstered headboard with us. For those of us who can’t find the time to DIY, Cymax Stores is offering 10% off Skyline Furniture headboards, including upholstered headboards. Should you like to take advantage of these savings, use the coupon code SKY10 at checkout.

To view other entries in the “Design Files Of Heather B.” series, click here.

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Shoe Storage Blues and How I Cured Them

Tuesday, October 13th, 2009

I’d been fighting the clutter of shoe boxes in the bottom of my closet for awhile now. Aside from not being able to see what pair was stored in which box, there was also the matter of accumulating dust.

Ameriwood CA Closets Base Shoe CubbyEvery now and then, my keen sense of good housekeeping would kick in: I would remove the boxes and loose pairs sitting on the floor of the cupboard to attack the dust bunnies that had been hiding in the corners and on the shoes themselves. There were a lot of shoe boxes, 15 to be exact, and about a dozen pairs of shoes without boxes. So it would take up a nice chunk of cleaning, and it started to annoy me. There had to be a better way to organize the shoes in my life. 

I don’t like hanging racks or hooks on the backs of doors, because I want to have them open to let in as much light into the apartment as possible. I considered a shoe cubby, but couldn’t find one that would fit; they all stood a bit too high and a couple that I looked at were too wide. The matter was conveniently decided for me when I went to the store for some cleaning items. As I walked by the kitchen and laundry organizer aisle, I happened to glance down. 

Standing in a neat row off to the side by themselves were four shoe racks. I picked up one of the packages to examine it closer. Made of wood, unpainted, it was an RTA (ready-to-assemble) rack with two end panels and four open shelves. Suddenly, I was possessed with an inexplicable resolve to Do Something! about my shoe situation. 

Winsome Mud Room Shoe Rack with Zinc Tray in Antique Walnut FinishThere were no dimensions listed on the label. I looked and looked again until I finally figured out that the width of the rack would the length of the shelves plus a little bit extra to accommodate the sides and the height would the same as standing the unit upright on the ground. But I still had no idea if it would actually fit in my closet. Upon further scrutiny of the shoe rack organizer, it became evident that there was no instruction sheet either. One glance at the price convinced me to take a chance. After all, even if it didn’t fit in the bedroom closet I had in mind, it would certainly easily go in the walk-in one in the hallway. 

Once home and opened, the six pieces neatly laid out on my living room floor, I discovered that yes, indeed there were no instructions. There were, however, 16 screws. No problem. I picked out one of screws from the small plastic bag and noted that it was the kind with the little cross on the head. I fetched the appropriate screwdriver from the kitchen drawer and prepared to put my new shoe rack together. 

It made sense to start at the bottom and work my way up. I don’t know if it was genuine wood or not, but it smelt piney and although smooth to the touch, one of the shelves had a small knot. I turned each piece over a couple of times just to make sure there was no “right” or “under” side. (Except for sides with the finials and the knotty shelf, which, when it came time add it, I made sure the blemish was underneath, out of sight.) I lined up the side panels and positioned one of the shelves in the middle.
 
Two and a half hours later, I discovered that:

a)       I’m not the handiest person in the world

b)       the holes in the side panel do not necessarily match the holes on the end of the shelf (at least not without a bit of wrestling)

c)       one pair of hands is not enough to prevent everything from shifting after having aligned it perfectly while trying to insert the screw through two sets of holes

d)       and finally, 16 screws is a great cardiovascular workout

In my defense, all of my five previous RTA experiences involved Allen keys and were easily assembled in under an hour and a half. But it was worth it. Once assembled, I admired my handiwork. The shelves were not bowed in anyplace; the shoe rack stood flat on the floor; and the round finials were the crowning touch. And yes, it did fit perfectly in my bedroom closet (once the shoe boxes had been recycled).

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Interior Paint Colors

Saturday, July 25th, 2009

Interior Paint Colors for Your Home

It’s a definite challenge to pick out the perfect wall colour for the rooms in your home. What color do you paint the ceiling? Trim? And what furniture goes well with it?

The following will help you learn what interior paint colour scheme you’re after, what colors go together, and what furniture fits the color well.

If you’re not planning on selling your house anytime soon, why not take a risk with color? If you were planning to sell your house in the next three to five years, you might want to stick with neutral colours so people won’t be turned off by eccentrics if they want to invest in your home.

The following are popular interior paint colour schemes and their definitions:

  • Monochromatic: Using the same colour throughout the room, possibly varying with tints and shades (like mint green and forest green).
  • Analogous: Choosing paint colours that are right next to each other on the colour wheel (such as yellow and orange, or purple and pink).
  • Complimentary: colors that are the opposite of each other on the colour wheel (like red and green, or blue and yellow).

When you’re choosing your paint colour(s), remember these tips:

  • Choose the wall color first, instead of the ceiling or trim. Those are normally accent parts to the room and should match your primary wall color.
  • You’ll need to check the paint swatches in natural light, artificial light, sunrise/sunset, and night-time lighting. The shade may look different in separate lighting, and it might not be the right choice for you in the end.
  • Light colored paints make the room appear more spacious, and do well when applied to long walls of a room.
  • Dark coloured paints make a room feel cozier, and work well on the end walls of a long room. However, they require more maintenance than light walls, and absorb heat faster.
  • White ceilings give off an illusion of more space in a room.

Here are the different kinds of paint types and their definitions:

Flat: It doesn’t reflect light, so it’s a good finish for hiding imperfections. Use flat paint in a room that doesn’t require a lot of cleaning, or gets disturbed with wear and tear.

Satin/Eggshell: Both names are interchangeable. This paint has a delicate shine that is indicative of a fresh eggshell. It is a step up from flat paint – it’s more stain resistant and longer lasting.

Gloss: Hard, shiny, and good at hiding brush strokes – that’s gloss paint for you. However, it may draw imperfections to the walls. It is the most stain resistant paint, though, and the easiest to clean.

Semi-Gloss: If you want the look of gloss but not the imperfections that may come through, try a semi-gloss. It’s good for rooms that go through a lot of wear and tear, because it’s simple to clean and relatively hard.

Now that you know the basics of selecting paint, it’s time to select your colour! Look through the different shades and colour combinations from Benjamin Moore Paints to see which one will work in your home.

Red

Dusty Rose PaintMonochromatic

Red Home PaintAnalogous

Red Interior PaintComplimentary

A unique way to accent red walls is through gold-tinted furniture.
Gold Floor LampAF Lighting Candice Olson Logan Gold Floor Lamp
Gold Tapestry RugL.A. Rugs Platinum Style Gold Tapestry Rug
Gold MirrorMurray Feiss Viola Leaf Gold Mirror

Blue

Blue Interior PaintMonochromatic

Blue Home PaintAnalogous

Blue Paint IdeasComplimentary

To compliment a blue room, white furniture really pops out.

South Shore Platform BedSouth Shore Furniture Newbury Collection White Platform Bed
White  Dining TableKlaussner Furniture Treasures White Dining Table
White Leather SofaGlobal Furniture USA 757 Series White Leather Sofa

Green

Green Interior PaintMonochromatic/

Green Home PaintAnalogous

Green Paint ColorComplimentary

Warm, wooden furniture in maple finishing compliments any shade of green.
Asian Platform BedAtlantic Furniture Manhattan Platform Bed with Open Footrail
Cocktail Table SetStanley Furniture Sunset Key Rum Round Cocktail Table Set
Maple DresserStanley Furniture Provincia Maple Dresser in Golden Distressed Finish

Yellow

Yellow Interior PaintMonochromatic

Yellow Home PaintAnalogous

Yellow PaintComplimentary

Espresso-treated hardwood contrasts well against the bright yellow, but isn’t as harsh as black.

Queen Platform BedHillsdale Tiburon Bentwood Queen Platform Bed
Brown Leather Sleeper SofaKathy Ireland Home by Omnia Furniture Leather Mirage Brown Leather Sleeper Sofa (multiple finishes)
Trestle TableHomelegance Daisy Espresso Trestle Table

Purple

Purple Interior PaintMonochromatic

Purple Home PaintAnalogous

Interior Purple PaintComplimentary

Since the purple is so strong, going with black furniture won’t overpower it.

Black Platform BedFashion Bed Group Kyoto Modern Black Platform Bed
Black SectionalAlphaville Le Corbusier Grande Chaise Black Sectional (2 finishes)
Black DresserLifestyle Solutions Ebony 9 Drawer Triple Black Dresser

Brown

Brown Interior PaintMonochromatic

Brown Paint ShadesAnalogous

Paint BrownComplimentary

Silver or chrome is a great accent colour in a brown room.
Super Nova Floor LampAF Lighting Supernova Floor Lamp
Brown FutonBrown Futon
Brown Bar StoolBrown Bar Stool

Grey

Grey PaintMonochromatic

Grey Interior PaintAnalogous

Grey Paint IdeasComplimentary

Bright red furniture will really stand out in a silver or grey living space.

Red Leather LoveseatArmen Art Furniture Roc Red Leather Loveseat
Shade Floor LampStyle Craft Nantucket Shade Floor Lamp
Red Bar StoolHillsdale Red Bar Stool

Pink

Pink Paint IdeasMonochromatic

Pink Interior PaintAnalogous

Pink Paint ShadesComplimentary: http://img512.imageshack.us/i/pink3.jpg/

With pink, try furniture finished in mahogany for a rich, colourful room.

Mahogany Platform BedFashion Bed Group Contemporary Mahogany Platform Bed
Coffee Table MahoganyGlobal Furniture USA 728 Coffee Table Mahogany
Mahogany MirrorModus Canyon Mahogany Mahogany Mirror

Black

Black Paint IdeasMonochromatic

Black Interior PaintAnalogous

Interior Black PaintComplimentary:

Purple is a fun way to really showcase a black room

.
Purple ChairSkyline Furntiture Curved Back Upholstered Purple Chair
Upholstered BedSkyline Premier Purple Border Upholstered Bed
Purple PillowMystic Valley Traders Profiles Plum Square Pillow 18 x 18

Have any paint questions or need some help matching shades with furniture just ask I am happy to help you with your interior paint colors and furniture!

Nicolette Interior Design Diva

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Interior Design Advice

Friday, July 17th, 2009

Interior Design Advice:  Top Ten Major Design Mistakes to Avoid!

Interior Design AdviceNo matter how careful or precise you are in decorating your home, there are always mistakes that can be made. They can range from amusing, to dreadful, to just plain dangerous.

Take this interior design advice & check out the top ten design mistakes to help you avoid these pitfalls yourself!

1. Carpet in the Bathroom

A contoured toilet rug is one thing – but wall-to-wall carpeting in the washroom? Putting aside the fact that rugs and carpets absorb germs, mildew and mould, the only fabric that should be on the floor is your bathroom mat for getting out of the shower. If you have any sort of carpet in your bathroom to minimize slippage, there are other options out there that don’t soak up bacteria.

The best tile choices for the floor are granite, slate, and sandstone because they have a higher slip tolerance. You don’t have to settle with smooth, slippery tiles – there are models available that are ridged, ribbed or studded. If you’re not willing to give up carpet because you hate the feeling of cold, hard floors, installing a heated floor system will take care of that. Just make sure you don’t keep the heat on 24/7 – or else you can expect your heating bill to rise!

2. Exposed Cables

Not only are exposed cables unsightly and make your home look like a control center, they can be hazardous, especially when children are involved. It’s possible for toddlers to be crawling on the floor and run into a jumble of cables.

If you take the time to unplug and untangle your web of cables, you can put them behind a large piece of furniture, hide them under the baseboard, or invest in some cable covers. It’s a quick and easy way to clear up your living space.

3. Plastic Sofa Covers

Although they keep the dust, crumbs, and pet hair away, plastic covers look uninviting and are just plain uncomfortable to sit on. They make your living room completely unavoidable. These days, there are practical sofas available that can be cleaned effortlessly. Leather and microfiber are the best choices – all you need is a damp cloth and some detergent to wipe off any sort of damage.

If you’ve got plastic covers for your furniture because your pet scratches or sits on them, there are other solutions out there than outdated synthetic coating. Consider putting an extra-large decorative (but inexpensive) throw or bedsheet on your couch whenever your pet jumps up, to keep the hair away.

To prevent cat scratching, make sure you have scratching posts available right next to your furniture, and if they still try to scratch a couch or chair, a quick splash with a water sprayer will train them to stay away.

4. Improperly Placed Wallpaper

Have you ever put up wallpaper, took a step back, and noticed that you didn’t line up the panels evenly? It’s a common mistake that’s a pain to correct. The obvious solution is to hire a professional to do the job, but that can eat up a chunk of your budget, and even the pros mess up sometimes.

Consider applying wallpaper to only one wall so you minimize the chance of uneven application, or just avoid wallpaper altogether. Try painting your walls and then holding up stencils for unique wall designs. If you accidentally make an error, you can always paint over and start again – much easier than stripping down wallpaper and re-applying.

5. Clutter, Clutter, Clutter

If you’ve got a room that’s constantly accumulating more and more stuff, with no form of organization, that can be an agonizing design mistake. How are you going to find what you need in a room with random boxes, spare furniture, and dirty laundry hanging about? The biggest excuse for not tidying up a cluttered room is lack of time.

However, many tasks don’t take very long when there’s more than one pair of hands. If you’ve got any friends or family members who are up to the organizing challenge, the job can go by twice as fast. Consider offering a bit of cash if no-one can be swayed! To get started, grab three giant boxes and label them “Keep”, “Trash”, and “Donate”. Then, start digging through everything! Give yourself three seconds to decide what box you’ll put the item in.

Make sure people confirm with you where the items will go before categorizing them. When you’ve finished, it’s easy to throw out the Trash box and give away the Donate box, but you’ve still got to sort out the Keep. Consider installing shelving units or storage bins in your room to hold the Keep items. And remember to keep things orderly! You won’t want to go through this process again!

6. Uncomfortable Sitting Space

What is the point of having seating in your home that isn’t pleasant to sit on? After all, when you sit down, you expect to sink into comfort, not hurt yourself on a rigid wood backpiece or unpadded seat. Outdated furniture is usually the cause of uncomfortable seating.

It’s easy to get rid of old furnishings and purchase new ones, but if you’d like to update your seating space without spending big bucks, try these different options. For dining, bar or patio chairs, simply pick out seat cushions with strings so you can securely tie the cushions to the back and seat area.

All living room sofas and chairs need is to be re-cushioned. You can look into the project and see if you can do it yourself, and if it seems too challenging, look into professional help. Shop around to see where you can get the best deal. Another alternative is to check out discount or vintage furniture stores. You have to be patient, though – it can be difficult to find what you’re looking for! And be sure to test out the furniture to see if it’s comfier than what you have. Also, assess the furniture for any damage. You want it to last, after all!

7. Ignoring Glass

There’s nothing more hideous than greasy streaks on your windows, fingerprints on your glass coffee table, or dirty water splatters on your bathroom mirror – a very unappealing decorating flaw! Of course, the quick fix is cleaning it up, but how do you prevent it? Nobody wants to be continuously maintaining their glass fixtures around the house. Keeping windows spotless is important, since the cleaner your windows are, the more light gets in, heating up your home quicker.

If you have little ones that always seem to press their noses against your sliding glass door, consider putting up clear plastic sheets so your glass is protected. You can also stick on fun glass decals that your children would much rather touch! Consider covering a glass coffee table with a plastic coating as well – it will also repel spills!

When it comes to your bathroom mirror, consider raising it and putting tiles in its place. Water will splash on the tiles instead of the mirror. And when it’s cleaning time, rub down any sort of glass with newspaper. The water-based ink is a great cleaning solution, and it doesn’t leave behind lint, like cloths and paper towels!

8. Too Many Styles

Modern. Traditional. Casual. Novelty. There are so many design styles out there, and they don’t all need to be displayed in one room! Designing a room is all about sticking to one specific fashion and running with it.  Nothing wrong with a bit of design fusion but be careful before you turn your room into flea market style!  Do you not have a clue how to include all the elements of one style into a living space? First, pick a design path you want to go down.

For up-to-date living spaces, go with the sleek look of modern or contemporary style. Traditional, classic style is more homey and old-fashioned. Then, consider what pieces you own that go with your chosen style. Get rid of the rejected pieces, or move them into another room that fits them better.

You can also re-adorn pieces with paint or coverings to adapt them to your new room. For new furnishings, discount or vintage furniture shops are a great place to go if you’re on a budget. Also check out flea markets or auctions for lower-prices decorating options. Once your room has a single style in it instead of a handful, it will look and feel better to be in!

9. What About the Yard?

Home décor isn’t just limited to the indoors! If it’s been awhile since you last touched up your yard, you might want to think about giving it a much needed facelift. After all, if your inside is well-decorated, but your outside isn’t up to par, that’s not much of a balance! Renewing your backyard doesn’t have to be difficult.

Plant new grass seedlings in patchy spots, trim any hedging, rake up old leaves, and surround the area with potted flowers. Garden accessories like iron statues or solar-powered lamps give your yard a bit of charm. And don’t forget to touch up any old, peeling paint on the stairs or patio. With a freshly updated backyard, you’ll feel great about having guests over!

10. Not Expressing your Personality

It may seem like a fool-proof idea to copy a design out of a magazine or online, but normally you can be left with a generic, boring room that doesn’t incorporate any elements of your individuality. If you’re not feeling confident in your design taste, either work with a friend or a professional so they can feed you design ideas.

Notice what concepts you like and which ones you don’t – that will help develop your taste so you can get a better feel of what works for you. Once you know what you want, try to find pieces from a variety of stores so you don’t have a standard-looking room, and experiment with fun colours, textures, and sheen.

Designing should be fun – not a chore!

I hope this interior design advice helps you and remember if you need any help with your home furniture & designs just ask!

Nicolette Interior Design Diva

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Make Upholstered Headboard

Tuesday, July 7th, 2009

How To Make an Upholstered Headboard

DIY Upholstered Headboard

Make Upholstered HeadboardNow that your bed is done, it’s time to get started on a beautiful DIY upholstered headboard!

The first thing you should do is pick out your fabric. Find a swatch of whatever you like – whether it you go with microfiber, leather, or velvet – and bring it into your bedroom. Does it match your drapes? Walls? Comforter?

Once you’ve found a fabric you like, start thinking about what shape you’d like your headboard to be. If you’re planning to cut out the design yourself, you might want to stick to something simpler so it isn’t as difficult. If you’re going to get the shape pre-cut, why not try a unique shape for your headboard? Research headboards on the Internet and decide on the shape for you.

The following are tools and supplies that you’ll need to make a upholstered headboard:

-         A jigsaw (if you’re shaping the headboard yourself)

-         Pencil, scissors, utility knife

-         Staple gun

-         Tape measure

-         ¼ or ½ inch plywood (depending on your stability preference)

-         2 inch thick foam

-         Fiberfill (or “batting”)

-         Your fabric choice

-         Template papers (once again if you’re going to cut it yourself)

You’ll need to measure the width of your mattress before you get started. Your headboard should typically be slightly wider than your mattress.

Then, you’ll need to decide how high you want your headboard to be. Are you using it for decoration only, or are you going to rest against it while watching TV or reading? If the latter is the case for you, make sure your head will rest comfortably against the headboard – and not the wall.

Once you have your plywood cut out & sanded, either by you or a professional, you’ll need the foam cut next in the same shape. Remember that the foam should be around 2 inches thick to be properly comfortable.

Then, you’ll need to get fiberfill cut off a roll from the store. Add about 12 extra inches, since you’ll need to wrap the entire thing around the headboard, and not just place it in front. When it comes to your fabric, you’ll need to do the same thing – order 12 extra inches, since it will wrap around the headboard too.

Once all of your pieces are cut out and ready to be put together, you’ll need a big, open, flat surface to work on. Then, follow these steps:

-         Iron your fabric before you start working with it (if it needs to be de-wrinkled) – you’ll want it to be nice and smooth once completed.

-         Place the fabric flat, faced down on the smooth surface.

-         Layer the fiberfill over the fabric – they should be the same size. Next, put the foam over the fiberfill. Finally, finish off the layering with the plywood on top. All four of the layers should now be sandwiched together.

The fabric and fibrefill should be equally aligned with each other, and the foam and plywood should be lined with one another. The fabric and fiberfill should extend more than the foam and plywood so it can be wrapped around the back.

-         Pull the fabric and fiberfill to the back of the plywood and begin evenly stapling it in place with the staple gun.

The staples should be ¼ inches in size, and should be applied 2 inches apart. Test it first – staple every corner, flip the headboard around, and see if it looks good. If so, continue stapling the spaces between, and if it doesn’t, take out the staples and try again.

-         If there’s any excess material at the end, trim it off with your scissors.

Now it’s time to put up your new headboard! Flush mounts are recommended for supporting headboards on walls. All you do is apply them to the wall, and the back of your headboard, and they slide together, interlocking one another. The headboard is guaranteed not to bang against the wall every time you get in bed, like some loose headboards! How do you install flush mounts?

-         Locate the studs on the wall behind the space where the headboard will rest.

-         Attach the bottom part of the flush mount to the wall and then into the studs as widely as possible (within the width of your headboard).

-         Lean the headboard against your wall to get the location of the receiving flush mount on your headboard.

-         Remove headboard and drill the holes for the mounts.

-         Attach the mounts facing down, and then lift your headboard on your wall to secure it.

Step back  upholstered headboard – together! Remember, if the headboard is off center or just in a weird position, you can always reset the wall mounts – they aren’t permanent!

For inspiration (or just in case you’re not a fan of DIY), check out these upholstered headboaords

Let me know when you make a upholstered headboard, I would love to post the pictures.

Nicolette Interior Design Diva

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How To Paint Furniture

Friday, June 26th, 2009

How to Paint Unfinished Furniture

Compare the price of a finished piece of furniture to an unfinished one, and you’ll notice the difference all you need to learn is how to paint it. If the finished piece has been stained, veneered, or painted, it is definitely more expensive than a raw piece.

So, going with unfinished furniture is a great option for those on a budget, since you have the option to paint it yourself. Plus, you can choose the paint colour, unlike the standard finished furniture that’s already been done.

If you’re just learning how to paint furniture, the task may seem a little daunting, but as long as you know the steps to take, painting unfinished furniture doesn’t have to be a challenge!

First, start off by choosing your furniture:

Seating:

Unfinished Dining Room ChairInternational Concepts Whitewood Queen Ann Unfinished Side Chairs

How To Paint FurnitureHome Styles Furniture Solid Wood Porch and Deck Folding Rocker in Natural Finish

Unfinished Counter StoolInternational Concepts 24" Madrid Unfinished Counter Stool

Sleeping:

Maple Poster BedAmerican Drew Sterling Pointe Poster Bed in Maple

Natural Loft BedCoaster Simply Casual Natural Loft Bed

Unfinished Baby CribStorkcraft Ariel Stages Convertible Crib in Natural

Tables/Desks:

Natural Wood NightstandWinsome Nightstand/End Table in Natural Wood Finish

Natural DeskWoodland Natural Desk

Natural Wood Coffee Table Set UnfinishedHomelegance Contemporary Natural 3-Piece Occasional Table Set

Shaker Coffee TableShaker Coffee Table

Natural Wood Coffee TableNatural Wood Coffee Table

Storage:

Natural Wood Double DresserPrepac Six Drawer Double Dresser in Natural Finish

Unfinished Wood BookcaseInternational Concepts Unfinished Wood X-Sided 4 Tier Bookcase

Natural Wood Dining Room BuffetHome Styles Furniture Natural Base and Natural Wood Top Buffet

Décor:

Wall Mount MirrorNexera Colori Wall Mount Mirror in Natural Maple Finish

Natural Wood Wall ClockNextime Natural Wood Wall Clock

Teak Floor LampShady Lady Outdoor Teak Slat Floor Lamp

Once you’ve selected your pieces, it’s time to paint! Follow these steps to a successful DIY painting project:

1. Sand

Sanding your unfinished furniture will get rid of the roughness and give it a better appearance. Make sure you have fine grit sandpaper, very fine grit sandpaper, and a tack cloth. They’re all available at your local hardware store.

You’ll probably want to sand your pieces outside, since the fine pieces of wood will create dust. Start by sanding your piece with the fine grit paper – be sure to do it lightly, not forcefully. Then, wipe down the piece with the tack cloth. This will remove the dust. Finally, sand the entire piece once more with the very fine grit paper. Use the tack cloth again to finish up and remove dust.

2. Prime

The first coat of paint you apply to your furniture is the primer base. It’s normally white in colour, and latex-based. Latex-based primer is much easier to work with than oil-based, so make sure to look out for it. Priming is an important step because without primer, the wood grain, knots, and raw colour can show up through normal paint. Plus, the primer creates a base that the normal paint sticks to, so the paint will last much longer.

Wherever you decided to paint your furniture, make sure you’ve put down an old sheet or newspaper underneath it so you don’t stain the floor. Remember to stir the primer well before using it, and after you’ve brushed it on, allow it to dry completely. After you’re certain it’s 100% dry, sand the piece again with the very fine sandpaper. Don’t forget to use the tack cloth on it afterwards.

3. Top Coat

Choosing a paint colour can be fun, but also difficult! What shade or hue should you go with? It all depends on the size of your piece, and of course, your personal taste. If you’re painting a bigger piece of furniture, like a bed frame or a dining room table, your colour palette should be a little more neutral.

Take colour risks with smaller pieces, like dining chairs or end tables. Jewel tones are popular right now, so consider the following bright colours from the paint brands Behr, C-I-L, and Ralph Lauren:

Purple – Purple Paint Sample

Yellow –Yellow Paint Sample

Orange –Orange Paint Sample

Blue –Blue Paint Sample

Green –Green Paint Sample

Red – Red Paint Sample

Oil-based paints are more suited for furniture that’s going to get a lot of wear. Cover it with a layer of polyurethane for extra protection.

High-gloss latex paints are extra durable and easy to clean, but the gloss reveals smudges and wood imperfections, so try a satin or eggshell finish in latex paint. For a selection of paintbrushes made for oil or latex paint from the Home Depot, click here: View all Brushes

When applying paint to your piece, pick one direction for your brush to go in. Sweeping the brush back and forth can lead to bumps and general unevenness. Follow the natural grain of the wood for an ideal finish. Allow the coat of paint to dry thoroughly, and if you can still see the primer, you’ll need to sand again. Wipe it down with the tack cloth and apply another coat.

4. Finish

To make your piece really special, give the final paint of coat a unique finish. Check out the following treatments to give your furniture an original look:

Stencilling – Applying a design by brushing (or sponging) paint through a cut-out transfer placed on the surface.

Sponging – A painting technique in which sponges are used to decoratively apply paint.

Crackling – The splitting of a dry paint or varnish, for a more antique look.

Marbling – An ornamental technique that imitates the color and shape of marble.

Once you’ve finally completed painting, you can leave your piece without a finishing coat, or you can varnish it. You can also wax your piece to keep it protected.

Finally, you can take a step back and enjoy your DIY painting project! Now you know how to paint furniture the easy way!

Nicolette Interior Design Diva

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